Archive for the ‘Climbing’ Category

Starting a lead rack; Quickdraws

Tuesday, July 3rd, 2007

Once the nuts, cams, hexes, slings, or other protection are securely placed into the rock, we must attach the rope to the protection somehow. This is where the Quickdraw comes in.

(more…)

Starting a lead rack; Passive Protection- it’s nuts!

Monday, July 2nd, 2007

The mainstay of a lead rack is what’s known as passive protection. Nuts, chocks, hexes and similar. My first item of passive protection is a set of Nuts, model name “Rocks“, by Wild Country.

These are used by climbers by wedging them in tapering cracks in the rock, such that any loading causes the nut to wedge even tighter into the rock, securing the climber against a fall.

Wild Country Rocks - Shiny Nuts

As I am building up my first lead rack, it’s a rather expensive business. To keep the costs down, I’ve stayed away from the pretty Anodised Rocks, and purchased the older model - plain, silver Rocks.

I could justify the coloured rocks if I were climbing really hard stuff - choosing the rock based on colour, where colour enumerates width would save a few seconds, and with the hard stuff that could matter.

Starting a lead rack; The Helmet

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007

In 2004, incidents recorded by the England and Wales Mountain Rescue services show head injuries were second only to fractures, second only by one incident. This implies that if I do have to call out mountain rescue while climbing, it’ll likely be the cause of a head injury.

As such, I bought a bright orange helmet. This model comes in many colours, many are more cool, but I’m happy with visibility over style.

Bright Orange Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet
The helmet is designed and manufactured by Black Diamond, and it’s model name is the “Half Dome“. Weighing in a 345g it’s quite light, and it seems to be well ventilated.

Starting a lead rack; 240cm DMM Dyneema Sling

Tuesday, June 26th, 2007

It’s time for me to build up a so-called “rack”, for lead climbing. I start with one important piece of gear, a 240cm Dyneema sling, by DMM.

DMM 240cm Dyneema Sling

This sling will be used to create anchors at the top of climbs or pitches, allowing belay stations to be created, or top-ropes to be set up. Without silngs - no climbing is to be had.